Finished your Script and something isn't quite right? Don't worry. Almost every problem on a first build comes down to a single joint, a part facing the wrong way, or a setting, and most fixes take a few minutes with Quill in hand.
Find the problem that matches what you're seeing, work through the checks in order, and you'll be back at your desk in no time.
Start here: the two-minute check
Before you look up a specific problem, give the whole board a once-over under good light. This alone catches most issues.
- Every joint is shiny and cone-shaped, like a small volcano hugging the lead. Dull, lumpy or ball-shaped joints need to be reheated.
- No solder bridges. Solder should never join two neighboring pads. Look closely around the USB-C connector, the dial, the transistors and capacitor C4.
- Every pad is filled. A missed pin is easy to overlook. Count the pins on each part and make sure each one has a joint.
- Parts with a direction face the right way. On Script that means the three backlight LEDs, the three transistors (Q1 to Q3) and capacitor C4. More on each below.
- Resistors are in their marked spots. Script uses several resistor values, and swapping two is an easy mistake. Check the color bands, or measure them with a multimeter.
Not sure what a good joint looks like? Lesson 9 of Soldering Fundamentals shows you exactly what to look for, and Lesson 10 shows you how to fix a joint that isn't right.
Script doesn't light up or isn't recognized
What you see: you plug Script in and nothing happens. No underglow, and your computer doesn't react.
- Try the USB-A adapter. Fit the included USB-C to USB-A adapter to your cable and plug into a USB-A port. If Script works this way but not with USB-C to USB-C, the cause is almost always R1 and R2.
- Check R1 and R2 (5.1 kΩ). These two resistors are how Script tells a USB-C port "I'm a device, please send power." If either joint is missing or weak, a USB-C port won't power the board at all. Reheat both.
- Check C4. C4 is the 10 µF electrolytic capacitor, and it only works one way around. The stripe on its side marks the negative leg, which must match the marking on the board. Its legs are close together, so also check carefully for a solder bridge between them.
- Use a data cable. The cable in your kit is ideal. Some phone cables only charge and can't carry data.
- Try another port or computer to rule out the port itself.
Important: if your computer warns you about a USB power surge, or any part of the board feels hot, unplug right away. Look for a solder bridge around C4 and the USB-C connector before plugging in again.
A key does nothing
- Check both pins of that switch. Each key switch has two metal pins that come through the board. If one isn't properly soldered, the key won't register.
- Check its setting in Scribe. A key can be set to do nothing. Open Scribe, click Connect, then press the key: Scribe jumps straight to that key's setting so you can see what it's doing.
- Try another profile. If the key works in one profile but not another, it's a setting, not a solder joint.
A key works, but its backlight doesn't light
The key and its backlight are separate circuits. Each backlight is made of four parts: the LED, a transistor (Q1 to Q3), a 220 Ω resistor (R3 to R5) and a 1 kΩ resistor (R6 to R8). If the key works but the light doesn't, the answer is in one of those four.
- LED direction. LEDs only work one way around. The longer leg is positive, and the flat edge on the LED's rim marks the negative side. Match it to the markings on the board.
- Transistor direction. The flat face of each transistor should line up with the flat side of its outline on the board.
- Resistor mix-up. Make sure the 220 Ω and 1 kΩ resistors are each in their marked spots.
- Compare with a working key. If two backlights work and one doesn't, compare the three sets of parts side by side. The odd one out is usually easy to spot.
Backlight stays on all the time? The three legs of each transistor sit very close together. Check for a solder bridge between them.
The dial doesn't work, skips, or turns the wrong way
- Check every pin on the dial. The dial has three pins on one side for turning, two on the other side for pressing, and two wide mounting tabs. The tabs are large and soak up heat, so give them a little longer with the iron.
- Skipping or jumpy steps? Reheat R11 and R12 (20 kΩ). These resistors help Script read the dial cleanly.
- Pressing the dial does nothing? Check the two pins on the pressing side.
- Turning the "wrong" way? Open Scribe and swap the settings for the two dial directions.
Script is doing something unexpected
- All three backlights lit up and the keys stopped working. Holding the dial down for about half a second opens profile select, and the underglow previews each profile's color. Press key 1, 2 or 3 to choose a profile, and Script goes back to normal. It's easy to do by accident if you hold the dial when you meant to click it.
- Copy and paste don't work on my Mac. The factory profiles use Ctrl shortcuts, which is right for Windows, Linux and ChromeOS. On a Mac, open Scribe and change the modifier to Win/⌘.
- Typed text comes out with the wrong symbols. Script types as if your computer uses a US keyboard layout. If yours is set to a different layout, some characters may come out differently.
- I want to start over. In Scribe, click Reset all to bring back the factory profiles.
Script won't respond at all, and the lights don't react
If you hold the BOOT button while plugging Script in, it starts in firmware update mode instead of running normally. In this mode the keys and dial do nothing. Unplug Script and plug it back in without touching BOOT.
If it happens every time you plug in, check the BOOT button for a solder bridge that is holding it "pressed."
The keys work, but there's no underglow
The underglow lights are fitted at the factory, so this is usually a setting. Open Scribe and check the underglow color for your current profile: a very dark color can look like it's switched off. If the underglow stays dark with a bright color selected, get in touch and we'll help.
Still stuck?
We're here to help. Email support@amomii.com and include:
- What's happening, in a sentence or two.
- Clear, close-up photos of both sides of your board in good light. This is the single most useful thing you can send us.
- What you've already tried.
- Your computer (Windows, Mac, Linux or ChromeOS) and, if you're using Scribe, your browser.
We'll get your Script up and running.
